While checking out this morning I asked our ever-smiling friend behind the desk if he could organize a taxi to the airport for me.
"No no I have pickup there, you will come with me.' no argument just a plain statement of what was going to happen.
"Okay thanks "“ when are you leaving?'
"Soon'
Ah that good old standard African time again "“ now. soon, later, much later and all "“maybe.
"Okay I'll wait outside, cheers'
About 45 minutes later a hard worked Toyota town ace van pulled up. Putting my bags in the back we headed off like a rusty grey scud missile.
At the airport drop off point I thanked my host and part time kamikaze pilot and started to get out.
"Wait please' he said " I forget last night to give you this' he handed over a business card, "The Jazz Club'. " The number is on the back. Just call, tell them you are an associate of Mr. Steve's and they will answer your questions'
Handing over a large thick manila envelope he continued " please pass these on to Mr. Steve tell him I will try to get more'
"This isn't contraband of some sort is it?' I asked.
"No no, just business documents and photos. They arrive at the hotel and Mr. Steve picks them up on his way through but if you are going to see him soon then it is important that he gets them'
"Oh he passes through often does he?' My interest was picking up now.
"Oui about once a month "“ and pays good French francs too!'
"Really, well yes I will see that he gets them "“ bon chance'
Retrieving my bags I left him forcing his way into the traffic amidst a cacophony of blaring horns and waving arms.
The next challenge was getting past some overzealous security. With much pointing and showing of pilot licenses and even maps and charts I finally made my way out to TGY. Today was much cooler at only 15 degrees C and a slight breeze, quite pleasant actually. Although only passing through this time I think I'd like to return at some stage as there is so much interesting history to see here. Planning, filing and filling out countless other pointless forms pushed departure time back to after midday, but it's only a shortish run up to Djibouti so I wasn't in too much of a hurry.

Post start checks completed and GPS programmed I taxied out in turn to await departure.
TGY lifted off quickly due to the lighter fuel load and climbed well up to cruise. I'm told the fuel is cheaper further north and I still had sufficient for this leg.

Climbing to the southeast the ranges around Addis Ababa slowly dropped away and spread out into the distance. The clear air this morning allowed the smallest details to be made out even at distance. As I turned north the ground dropped away and spread out into the Great Rift Valley.

Further north again the haze began and spread across the horizon to the northwest. Southern Djibouti is mainly stony barren desert receiving very little in the way of annual rainfall. Subsistence goat and camel herders are about all that exist here. Vast saltpans and desert reflected the sun back almost painfully. Had I been so inclined I could have descended here over the Danakil depression, one of the lowest points on the earth's surface, and got negative altimeter readout.

The airwaves here are not like the empty desert below however. R/T traffic was heavy and care was needed as I approached Djibouti city. The Americans have the airbase leased out and it is the headquarters for operation "enduring freedom'. Needless to say there are TFR's and "no fly' zones all over the place. All manner of military hardware could be heard and seen and contrails overhead crisscrossed the sky.
Slowly the silver grey sheen of the Gulf of Tadjoura slid into sight.

By now I was being worked into the traffic flow for rwy09 at Ambouli international. Getting all the checks out of the way I concentrated on the almost nonstop ATC chatter and kept my head swiveling looking for traffic.

The afternoon heat had built up the turbulence and it wasn't helped by the heavily loaded C17 on final ahead. Keeping a wary eye on him I stayed high on the approach and landed in long to avoid any nasty wake turbulence surprises.

From the few glimpses I managed to snatch on final Djibouti doesn't seem like the most scenic place on earth. It appeared to mostly be low houses around the base of a peninsula with a busy port and a big mosque complex in the western side of the city. The port looked pretty busy though with shipping spread out for miles. All the imports and exports for Ethiopia also come through this port as well.

Once TGY was safely secured and all customs cleared I made my way out through what passed for a terminal.

As I stopped to search for a taxi two large Africans dressed in the local loose fitting sarong type arrangement flanked me from behind.
"You came in the light plane' asked or rather, stated the one on my right. Although he was my height he had a good 20kg on me and none of it was fat.
"Yes that's right, why is there a problem?' my mouth went dry and the butterflies in my gut were the size of fruit bats.
"No problem, you are to come with us.'
Pulling my arm free I said " not likely mate I'm not going anywhere until you tell me what this is all about'
If this was some sort of snatch attempt then I wasn't going to go down without a fight. At least there were plenty of people in the terminal including a large number of marines and other service personnel so back up shouldn't be a problem.
"No problems, Dominic says you are to come with us, we take you to him.'
I breathed an almighty sigh of relief, that changed things a bit. " Well if Dominic says so then lead on'
We all squeezed into their battered Renault for the short trip into town. I had grown nearly accustomed to the African driving style now. We hurtled along swerving around other vehicles, loaded donkeys and groups of people all heading in different directions and all over the road. The wide dusty main streets with their white washed mud brick or plaster shops flashed by. Brightly coloured advertising hoardings, rugs and fruit stands interspersed with faded walls and rusting vehicles lined the streets. I could tell we were approaching the more affluent European quarter, as the streets were better kempt, the gardens more elaborate and the walls higher. Passing the U.S. Embassy on the avenue Mareschal Joffre we pulled up round the corner on the avenue Mareschal Foch. As you can tell from the street names Djibouti used to be the French colony of French Somaliland until independence in 1977.
Unwinding myself from the car I gave thanks that I had again cheated death and survived another African road trip.
A row of palms leaning out over the top of a high white washed stone wall provided welcome shade but I could still feel the heat radiating up from the ground. Set into the wall was a large set of black wooden doors with heavy cast iron bands and studs surrounded by ornately worked iron lattice. Large silver letters set into the wall along side proclaimed "The Jazz Club'.
Opening the door my driver motioned me through before shutting it behind me. I could just hear the car start and leave. It was much cooler in here. I was amongst thick tropical plants and a tiled path lead ahead into a patio area. Off to the left was a bar and restaurant, the full front open glass doors leading out onto the patio, which fell away in several levels toward a low stone wall overlooking the sea. Lush foliage and palm gardens curved in and out through each level closing each table off from it's immediate neighbors but still retained a view back toward a small elevated stage set with piano and drums. Small groups of business types talked quietly while a young Arab waiter flitted between.
As I headed into the bar a voice behind me made me turn.
"Pardon monsieur, may I be of assistance?' emerging from a desk behind the door was a well-dressed European. Swarthy complexioned with salt and pepper hair and a typical Gallic moustache that an imperial guardsman would be proud of, he approached holding out his hand.
"Yes "“ my name is Craig and I believe Dominic is expecting me?'
His grey eyes widened and his face split into a wide smile "ah yes of course, of course, I am Dominic Jalbert and welcome to my humble establishment. These are your bags? Achmed! Achmed! Take these bags to suite 3 now!' Clapping his hands and shoving the poor waiter Achmed into action he had me stripped of my bags and headed for a table before I could say another word. Calling back over his shoulder he shouted "Raoul! Raoul! Champagne and glasses for the lower deck.' "Please come this way Mr. Craig, Steven has been delayed but will join us later and asks that you wait here for him.' He led me to a well-shaded table by the sea wall with a magnificent view over the bay.

" You will rest and dine while you wait no? Good good!'
I felt overwhelmed; he never stopped long enough for me to argue so why bother?
"You are an "“ associate - of Stevens?'
"In a manner of speaking, I guess you could say that' it was easier to just go along rather than explain.
"Excellent! Stevens "associates' are always most welcome'
Seating me at a marble topped table with four chairs he deftly opened the just arrived bottle and poured. Surrounded on two sides by the gardens I could see back up to the stage and also out over the wall. Below, a short flight of steps cut into the stone led down to the dark sandy beach. From the rocks a wooden jetty ran out into deeper water. Further out a procession of shipping of all sizes and nationalities slowly cruised to and from the port further around the point to the west. Out further again, I could just make out the sail of a large yacht slowly heading in.
"I would recommend a platter of the sweetmeats, pastries and cheeses. Just tell Achmed here anything you wish and he will make it so "“ just as if I had given the order myself'
Achmed, just back from dropping my bags nodded vigorously behind. With 50% unemployment I guess people will put up with a lot to keep a job.
"Thank you Dominic, that sounds great.'
With another clapping of hands Achmed was sent running while Dominic excused himself to attend to other guests arriving.
Sitting in the shade with the cooling sea breeze straight off the water I passed the time watching the shipping and the non stop procession of military aircraft joining from the north.
As happens in these places sunset was suddenly upon me. One moment it was bright afternoon and next the sky was quickly deepening in colour while nature put on a superb light show as the sun sank toward the warehouses to the west.
Without me really registering it, the yacht I had been watching earlier had arrived and slid slowly up to the jetty, helmed expertly by a petite but very lovely looking brunette wearing cutoff jeans and a windcheater over a well filled out t-shirt. I didn't take any notice of her companion until he'd finished securing the lines and turned to wave. Typical "“ delayed ha! Just look for the best looking woman in the place and there will be Steve.
Going below he emerged a few minutes later in slacks and a light jersey while his "friend' was in a white strapless number that did little to dispel the notion that the tan was both real and "all over'!
Dominic greeted them on the beach like they were long lost friends and brought them up to my table. Drinks magically appeared as Steve made the introductions.
"Craig this is Michelle Jalbert', seeing the look of recognition in my eyes he continued "yes that's right the same as Dominic, his niece actually.'
"A great pleasure to meet you Michelle"Â
"Ah so this is the friend I have heard so much about?' she said smiling.
"And I deny just about all of it'
Steve laughed " don't listen to him Michelle, if it hadn't been for Craig I would be still buried somewhere rather unpleasant I'm sure'.
The rest of the evening passed very pleasantly with much laughter and talk. Michelle told us hilarious tales of her work as a stewardess with Air France and Steve told of trying to teach uncoordinated old ladies how to windsurf. I chipped in with a few tales from my trip so far. Dominic slipped in and out between courses, keeping guests entertained and the staff on their toes. Some time during the evening a 5-piece band had stated playing away in the background while the murmur of voices from unseen tables mixed with the occasional shrieking of parrots in the trees overhead.
During a break Michelle wandered off to find friends among the dinners.
"You two seem to be a close unit' I said to Steve.
"Yes' he said watching her move between tables "she's rather a special girl that one, maybe even "the"Â special one'.
After I'd picked my jaw up off the floor and checked my ears were functioning correctly I thought Wow! I'd never heard Steve go that far about a woman before.
"Really?'
"Yeah, but it could get a bit tricky though'
"How so?'
" A small matter of a very rich but very jealous boyfriend "“ but the biggest factor really is that she is related to Dominic'.
I didn't understand. "Again "“ how so?'
He rubbed his chin and let out a heavy sigh " Ah don't worry about it, it's just really complicated. Anyway, more important is that we have a meeting here for lunch tomorrow. I have someone coming so we can sign all the outstanding paperwork for our little "enterprise'.
"Okay"Â I said " just let me know if you need an ear for the other matter'
"Yeah thanks mates I'll keep that in mind'
"Well' I said 'I've had just about all the excitement I can take for a day so I'll leave you young ones to carry on if you don't mind. I'll see you tomorrow'.
As I passed the restaurant doors I glanced in and stopped. At the far end of the bar a familiar figure was slipping quickly out the side entrance. I didn't get a good view but I was sure that it had been Mike. By the time I got through the bar and out the door he'd gone. Back inside I called over the bartender.
"The person that was just here, can you describe him for me?'
"Oui, an American, about your height but much stronger, short hair, didn't say anything to anyone and just sat on the one bourbon. Then leaves and no tip!' This last was spat out with a dismissive wave of the hand.
Leaving a tip on the counter I thanked him and headed to bed. I now had plenty more to think about.

This leg 305.6nm 2.1 hrs
Total 17362.3nm 122.3hrs