Cockpit building

[towerguy]

Opencockpits site has a tutorial on how to make these yourself using a pair of 12 position rotary switches.
Could be cheaper? and not too hard to do.

The best place for cheap electronics and cheap small motors - both DC and Stepper motors - is old printers.
I have got most of my parts from old or dead printers. A stepper in Jaycars is about $25. A dead printer costs nothing and has 3 steppers plus all the LEDs,
photo interrupters, Rollers, metal bars, drive belts, plastic gears etc etc etc... I have buckets of the stuff .. all from a walk around the block at Inorganic collection time and from asking around at work and from friends.

Also old hard drives, and a particularly good source of small parts etc is old floppy drives - and you can get them by the truck load.

Cheers

[Kelvinr]

QUOTE (deeknow @ Oct 9 2013,5:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hehe, sweet as, let's connect again next Thursday aye?
Oh, and just so yaz know, I'm having a crack at building a sort of universal COM/NAV/DME panel with an Arduino behind it. Yeah prolly been done a thousand times before, I dont care

Nice. Yeah I will be able to confirm this then.

[Kelvinr]

QUOTE (metalnwood @ Oct 8 2013,10:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The comm nav panel is easy enough - if you dont care to have a display readout on it. If you want to just have the knob then you have a couple of options.

One is to have the dual concentric rotary encoder so part of it changes left of the decimal and the higher part of the knob changes right of the decimal. Leo is the only guy I know that stocks these to buy http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?ma...products_id=196 $15gbp so that is a bit of dosh.

Otherwise you just put two rotary encoders on it , two knobs but who cares if thats what you want.

If you want a replica of a specific aircraft then you will need to get the right knob and I can laser cut the panel for you, that way it looks like the real thing. Only problem is that if you want the right colour, i.e. not black it costs a lot of $$ to get it. At least to do it the way I do it.

You could always just paint a paintl and then laser engrave it, that would do OK as well as long as you dont get cheezel fingers all over it all the time.

I would definitely want something fairly believable so the laser cutting idea is inviting. What would I be looking at interns of cost to get the comm panel done including transponder?

I was also looking at a forward panel with toggle and rocker switches as well as a mag switch and push button starter all on on panel, I wonder what this would cost to make?

I have switches on the front of the throttle quadrant which I would use as auxiliary switches. You can never have too many hehe.

cheers

K.

[Kelvinr]

Beechcraft C-23 Sundowner Yoke arrived today. Exactly 14 days from order to delivery and no import tax or additional gst charges.

I'm waiting for Auckland bearings to get back to me after seeing the guy there today who has helped me so far with this stuff, he's really getting into the project, addicted!!

Anyway, i'm looking at bearing attached to rails so one of these on either side of the yoke will provide forward and aft movement (Pitch) then self aligning bearing (as seen in the picture) will help with roll (aileron), then to add the boxing to fit it into and then tempered springs for mild tension for pitch but may not do this for the ailerons as IRL when you deflect the ailerons right or left it doesn't always return (when your on the ground). when you're in the air however the forces are much more pronounced. I may apply a small amount of tension via springs, going to do some tests when i'm ready.

Of course my potentiometers with give the correct signals so will have to work out where to put them, perhaps fix a cog/gear to the bearing on the rail so as it moves on the rail it will spin the potentiometer.

Lot's to do....

[metalnwood]

I am a little confused. The bearing you have is most likely a double angular contact bearing that is housed in a pillow block.

This will give you your roll but dont expect that the shaft will move inside that bearing to give you the pitch.

You want something a little more like this

http://www.popscreen.com/p/MTA1MTg4NTI4/12...uck-Router-eBay

The shaft goes in it and can rotate as well as slide forward and backwards. This is how I would be supporting it as they are quite cheap as well. One pitfall for these cheaper bearings is that they are usually used on smaller diameters and it looks like your shaft is larger , 2"?

QUOTE (Kelvinr @ Oct 16 2013,9:00 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Beechcraft C-23 Sundowner Yoke arrived today. Exactly 14 days from order to delivery and no import tax or additional gst charges.

I'm waiting for Auckland bearings to get back to me after seeing the guy there today who has helped me so far with this stuff, he's really getting into the project, addicted!!

Anyway, i'm looking at bearing attached to rails so one of these on either side of the yoke will provide forward and aft movement (Pitch) then self aligning bearing (as seen in the picture) will help with roll (aileron), then to add the boxing to fit it into and then tempered springs for mild tension for pitch but may not do this for the ailerons as IRL when you deflect the ailerons right or left it doesn't always return (when your on the ground). when you're in the air however the forces are much more pronounced. I may apply a small amount of tension via springs, going to do some tests when i'm ready.

Of course my potentiometers with give the correct signals so will have to work out where to put them, perhaps fix a cog/gear to the bearing on the rail so as it moves on the rail it will spin the potentiometer.

Lot's to do....

[towerguy]

The bearing you've got is the one I've seen in most cockpit builds and I would be interested in what the cost was myself as its the same as I'm wanting to use.
You just mount the block on a frame that is held by a roller unit ie. a set of drawer glides. this gives the forward/aft movement while the block gives the roll. Perfect.
It has the added benefit - in my case - of being able to be linked directly across to a second yoke to give simultaneous movement on each side.

[Kelvinr]

QUOTE (towerguy @ Oct 17 2013,5:54 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The bearing you've got is the one I've seen in most cockpit builds and I would be interested in what the cost was myself as its the same as I'm wanting to use.
You just mount the block on a frame that is held by a roller unit ie. a set of drawer glides. this gives the forward/aft movement while the block gives the roll. Perfect.
It has the added benefit - in my case - of being able to be linked directly across to a second yoke to give simultaneous movement on each side.

I am using the rail slider method, best method for scalability I reckon. For the bearing I have (1 1/4") imperial, and housing was about $35 from Auckland Bearings. I have two because I also want some good weight at that end of the shaft. These also have grub screws on the bearing.

I'm waiting on a quote for a special bearing slider rails; bearing is flat on top with screw holes to mount the plate I have that will hold the bearing/housing. I'll find a picture of the rail and bearing and post here to show you.

[metalnwood]

Auckland bearings will probably not give you a good price on linear rail for the fact that they only seem to supply some of the better brands. This would do the job excellently

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-FULLY-SUPPORTED...=item3cd707836e

[Ian Warren]

If ya the clever plick ... ,I built a cardboard slider and spring attachment with yoke , switch's simplistic , trigger buttons from a airgun , was working up to a few years back .. i should get it back just for the museum fact i made the original base and unit before internet was invented , i gave it away when i got my first yoke back in 2001 , it was first built in 1989 , its probable it only cost 30 bucks back then but it worked so well ... durable indeed still be able to be modified to suit a USB connection .

[metalnwood]

I should add that these particular ones may not be quite long enough. Depends on how much movement you want for pitch.

QUOTE (metalnwood @ Oct 17 2013,8:29 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Auckland bearings will probably not give you a good price on linear rail for the fact that they only seem to supply some of the better brands. This would do the job excellently

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-FULLY-SUPPORTED...=item3cd707836e

[towerguy]

The linear rails would be very nice to mount the support board on in a "proper" fashion - BUT - looking at the ebay price and adding the shipping I'm still looking at about $100 or more. I still then have to buy the bearings and horseshoe mounts for the roll axis as well.
I am about to renovate the house ( including a replacement kitchen ) which means several sets of spare 'drawer runner' sets and guides available for simm purposes. I have already made the rudder pedal runners out of this system and they seem to work ok. I think there might even be a picture earlier in this forum.
(just looked - It's on page 8 about halfway down.)

I'll check with Auckland Bearings on prices though, thanks for the info.

[Ian Warren]

QUOTE (towerguy @ Oct 17 2013,9:47 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I am about to renovate the house ( including a replacement kitchen ) which means several sets of spare 'drawer runner' sets and guides available for simm purposes

Clever plick , good thinking Batman , i mean Towerman , whoops towerguy ..... Kitchen really did not need doing .... just needed the parts Keeps the Wifey happy !

[metalnwood]

Yes, it's not the cheapest option but given Kelvin was looking at them from Auckland bearings this is probably cheaper.


My first suggestion only uses one type of bearing for good results. The one you guys are looking at with the slide is more complicated and will be a bit more expensive.

[Kelvinr]

The rails I can get are priced per mm so I can get the size I need without getting more than I need. Just awaiting the guys phone call.

[metalnwood]

Priced per mm, that's already given the game away . They won't be cheap but they will be way overkill for your application.

My bet is the trucks used on them will be 100+ each

[Kelvinr]

Yeah, you're right Jason, the slider way is the more expensive way but offers far more flexibility I think. And yes, it is overkill with even the 15mm rail and block which can withstand up to about 100-150KG, the yoke will pull nothing like that. My real interest in it is the actual sliding function as it gives a really smooth deflection forward/aft. Also, getting a rack and pinion, I can then fit the rack down the length of the rail for the potentiometer. I suppose I have the design stuck in my head, and as long as it is far cheaper than any "good quality" unit out there then it's worth it. I think I will get well below the cost of the VRinsight Yoke ($1010NZD).

If I have any other alternatives i'll be sure to come and post here.

K.

[metalnwood]

I fully get why you want to do it, thats how I do my projects too

I just think the options we have here and what we pay is ridiculous. This one here is better, the other one I posted was a little too short. This with a buy now and fed ex shipping is a little under $100 nod

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-SBR12-600mm-12M...=item3a76add4e4

It's a different kind of linear rail as I am guessing the one that auck bearings is showing you is more of a rectangular profile. There are pros and cons for these different kinds of rail but for this project there is no advantage to the more expensive rail and I am guessing it will be a lot more expensive.

This auction above has 2 x 600mm lengths so they can be cut down to what you need easily enough. I have used both types of rail. I see the advantage of the rail - thats how I would do it myself I just wouldnt pour the extra money in to buying what auck bearing can source for you

[Kelvinr]

QUOTE (metalnwood @ Oct 17 2013,10:09 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I fully get why you want to do it, thats how I do my projects too

I just think the options we have here and what we pay is ridiculous. This one here is better, the other one I posted was a little too short. This with a buy now and fed ex shipping is a little under $100 nod

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-SBR12-600mm-12M...=item3a76add4e4

It's a different kind of linear rail as I am guessing the one that auck bearings is showing you is more of a rectangular profile. There are pros and cons for these different kinds of rail but for this project there is no advantage to the more expensive rail and I am guessing it will be a lot more expensive.

This auction above has 2 x 600mm lengths so they can be cut down to what you need easily enough. I have used both types of rail. I see the advantage of the rail - thats how I would do it myself I just wouldnt pour the extra money in to buying what auck bearing can source for you

Yeah, had another quote from Saeco Precision who gave me a heart attack with the cost, absolute robbery. I might just look at sourcing this one as it looks like it will do the job and all I would need to do is get it cut down and put some screw holes on the base. Looks like these are listed frequently. Hope so because i'll have to wait till next pay day.

[Kelvinr]

[metalnwood]

I guess you are following some plans or general guide you have found?

I would have done it slightly differently. Did the plastic (acetal?) support come with the yoke?

You could have gotten away with one of the pillow blocks if you are using the plastic bushing/support at the front. I would have also thought about spacing the two pillow blocks farther apart and not using the plastic support at all. I am assuming that the shaft is reasonably strong?